Roughly 70 km from Aleppo (50 kms from Qalaat Semaan), along a good tarmaced road (turn left on highway 56 before
the border post of Bab EI-Hawa, at 44 kms from Aleppo and left again, 8 kms later -no signpost- after the hamlet
of Ras EI-Hossein, formerly Bashmishli), and a little less than 2 km before arriving to Qalblozeh you will cross
an abandoned village, "Qirqbizeh", you will find there perhaps the most ancient church of the area. Probably
built in the first half of the 4th century against a 3rd century villa.
Its massive aspect makes it hardly distinguishable from the other houses. On the crest of the Djebel EI-Ala, Qalblozeh,
is a Druze hamlet squatting on an antique village. The 5th century basilica is one of the most beautiful in Syria.
This church is divided into three naves by two rows of three arches of a considerable span. It contained a narthex
(porch) which was opened by a large curved arch, between two flooted twin towers, but which is today partly dilapidated.
The chevet (rear part of the church) is circular and presents two orders of columns superimposed without a middle
cornice. The upper part of the central nave has windows separated by small columns supported by cantilevers which
were in turn supporting consoles destined to carry the timber. The lattice work was actually covered with wood.
This excursion can include a visit to other abandoned villages of the limestone massif. In particular to Behio,
2 km from Qalblozeh where you can see a villa and a monastery and some 5th and 6th century houses. Of the two churches
in Behio, the one towards the west (of the 6th century) has in the center an unusual exedra or horseshoe-shaped
niche which opened the Bema or sanctuary (as did the main altar). This niche must have been reserved for the clergy
or choir during the services. A villa, built with a well-trimmed finish, is remarkably well preserved. Numerous
oil-presses show that Behio was a center for olive-trees culture and olive-oil production. |
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