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Crac des Chevaliers

 

View from the Carc Tower

Maalula
Homs
Crac Chevaliers
Aphamea
Mudiq Castle
Hama

 

Krak was also used as a basis of attack against cities of the hinterland, such as Homs and Hama. On such occasions the place resounded with the tumult and clamours of about two thousand armed knights of various orders, Christian, Syrian and Armenian auxiliaries, and Turcoples, a light cavalry of Moslem mercenaries working for the Franks under the command of a knight of the Hospital called Turcopliar.

The ideal thing is to arrive at the Krak early in the morning to see the sunrise on these stones, more than seven centuries old, which give the impression of a ghost ship emerging from the fog. The main entrance, on the east side, is made in a salient of the outer wall, remarkably restored, as well as the the rest of the castle, with its round or square shaped towers, its bretessy salient which the Arabs altered in the late 13th century. Before entering, take a walk around, clockwise from the entrance. The southern side, more exposed than the others to blows of the enemy, is defended by a strong bastion which was added late in the 13th century by Sultan Baybars, and two other angle constructions in the shape of a half circle, while a barbican, and advanced defense construction, was surrounded by three moats, now filled, in the front of the powerful Frank wall.

The western side, very regular with its beautiful curtain of a crenellated wall-walk and buttresses, is strengthened with five round shaped towers. The northern front includes a postern between two square shaped towers, the external face of which was rounded in the late 13th century by the Arabs. The main entrance is highly impressive: a wide ramped and vaulted passage that leads to the inner enclosure wall and to the platform between the two concentric walls. The inner wall' was erected by the Franks before the arrival of the Knights of the Hospital, in 1142, but most of the towers strengthening it were altered later on (end of the 12th century), as well as some parts of the wall joining the sides of the two neighboring bastions. This second wall, much higher, controls all the works of the first one . Large taluses were added to the west, south, and east, at the beginning of the 13th century to strengthen the wall and make it more resistant to earthquakes. The southern front was also protected by a large cistern or berqil (Birket), excavated between the two walls. It received water by means of an aqueduct which provided water to the garrison's horses and livestock.

Entry to the inner wall takes place by a powerful square shaped salient, the passage ends on an esplanade under which are huge silos, stores and reserves. To the right a Romanesque chapel, barrel-vaulted, forms a slight protrusion on the curtain with its apse. Of its transformation into a mosque by Baybars there remain a "minbar" or preaching chair and three "mihrabs". Opposite the chapel on the southern front is the recess with three powerful towers partly covered by the thick talus strengthening the adjoining wall on this side. The least considerable of the towers, round shaped, was used as a chamber for the Grand Master of the order. A spiral staircase leads to a beautiful round shaped room with a cross- ribbed vault supported by four small columns sunk into the wall. It is connected to the middle bastion by a vast two - floored dwelling with double bay, with Gothic vaulting. The central edifice or keep looks from the esplanade like a rectangular salient, with large blocks, while the outer-side is rounded. Three large, very elegant windows look out from the two floors. The third erection, the most impressive one, is connected to the keep by a thick and very wide massif taking the place of an adjoining wall and forming an armed place on which many war engines could be placed. From this bastion one dominates a five - sided erection which was altered at the end of the 13th century by Baybars to better control an incline giving access to the second wall and control the platform between the two adjoining walls.

A door facing that which opens on the inner yard gives access to the big hall, an elegant construction of the middle 13th century, which is preceded by a portico with seven rib-vaulted bays. This gallery, with two doors in the form of a broken arch and five twin elegant shaped windows, forms a kind of clositor. The large hall of the knights, communicating with a 120-meter long hall contained a well, a round-shaped bakery, and latrines and must have been used as a dwelling by a part of the garrison as well as for stores.

Just 6 km from the Krak des Chevaliers, you have the Convent of Saint George, built at the time of Emperor Justinian (527-565), which has always been inhabited by Greek Orthodox monks. The old underground chapel contains beautiful woodworks and precious icons of the 13th century. The new church, erected in 1857, has no particularly interesting feature save for its treasure of numerous icons, crosses of massive or finely chiseled silver, chalices, silks, etc...


 

 

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